Thursday, May 10, 2012


One of my long standing todos in Joshua Tree is a gently overhanging 11c off-finger/ringlock crack called Wangerbanger. The line is completely different than anything you would see in Josh. The striking line splits the smooth 80 ft. Northern face of The Rusty Wall. For such a short line it is able to demand all types of climbing. Fingerlocks, off-fingers, handcracks and offwidth. It's truly a Josh classic not to be missed by anyone climbing at the grade. The wall is gently overhanging with a ring lock crux just past halfway up the route. 

I got ont the route a few weeks ago and made it through the crux first go and blew the move to a rest. I figured everything out and finished up the route. I thought I would be golden this last weekend when I went for a redpoint. Perhaps my confidence got in the way but I had a worse showing than last time. Mentally things felt really out of line. Mental difficulties occurred after I fell and I hung a couple times working out the sequence. I  will be back in the fall to send this. 

Wangerbanger is the obvious splitter. Photo from

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