Power Failure

After half a day of rest from Moonlight Carlos and I planned to climb Touchstone Wall at 5.11 C2. I wanted to approach this as more of a free climb after the first 2 aid pitches. You can leave all of your aid gear at the top of the second pitch and grab it on the way back down if you rap the route. We woke up and had coffee at The Mean Bean to check the weather. 80% chance of rain and snow. "Won't be doing that route today. Sorry Carlos." We decide to head to the base and crag for the day. There are some amazing cracks in the vicinity but I've never been in Zion long enough to crag. We warmed up on Cherry Crack which despite a little awkward start was amazingly splitter. Seems to be the story of Zion. We decided on Tails of Flails a hands to fingers crack in a tight corner. I expected this route to be a bit awkward but it ended up being really cool. Lots of stemming/liebacking and jamming with just the right amount of groveling. Both of these routes seemed tough for me as I was still really sore and tired from Moonlight.

 I had really wanted to get on a thin stemming corner called Dire Wolf but felt guilty as this is still out of Carlos's ability and wasn't sure if I had it in me. I decided to climb Fails of Power instead. I thought this route was an 11a turns out to be an 11c. This thing is all #2s to the first set of anchors. I had to down climb 25 ft to grab more as a #3 wouldn't fit. To the first set of anchors is 10b and above that is 11c. I got to the first anchors fine, though having to milk rests. As I moved into the next section the crack began to thin. It moved down to .75 camalots, a size I definitely more practice on. I spent a couple of minutes on a decent foot trying to get my hands to feel solid. I really thought I had it as my ringlocks felt good but after a few moves I popped out for a 15ft ride. Straight Power Failure. I fell close to the first set of anchors and felt it would take me a while before I could climb to the top set of chains. I down climbed and we top roped the first section racing the ominous rain clouds. Managed to stay dry for the day and drove back to CA that night. Definitely going to get back on this one next time I'm in Zion.

Winter Solo of Moonlight Buttress...IN A DAY!!!

Less than a year ago I climbed my first big wall in Zion National Park. Moonlight Buttress is one of the easiest walls in the country but at the time was by far the most mentally and physically taxing thing I had ever done. As my partner, Cheyne, and I were standing on the summit, he compares Moonlight to his recent winter ascent of Zenyatta Mondatta. "A day of climbing on ZM is probably the same a soloing Moonlight in a day." Soloing (aka. rope soloing) is a type of climbing most commonly practiced on big walls. Your still using a rope but you don't have a partner with you so you have to do all of the work involved. You could say that it's twice the amount of work but because you don't get any rests or anyone to help keep morale up end probably ends up being more. Not being able to process anything more stressful that what we just finished my immediate thought was "I could never do that." We talk as we pack up the gear and get headed down Angel's landing trail towards the car. "No way" I said after some thought while hiking. He revised and said it would be just harder than doing it in a day. Either way, unbeknownst to me, the seed was planted.

Fast forward to the Fall. I had finished my first solo in the valley, I was looking to move onto doing a solo in a push. Initially I thought this would be West Face of Leaning Tower but I partnered up with a potential NIAD partner from the bay area instead to see how we climbed together. I wasn't too worried about not having done WFLT since I had been planning on heading Zion after Yosemite anyways. Plus, the comment Cheyne made and the certain doubt was still looming in the back of my head. It was just something I couldn't ignore for whatever reason. Just as strongly as I had doubted my ability on the summit, I had been beginning to doubt if I had made the right judgment up there. What I had settled on was that there was really no way of knowing whether or not I could until I was standing alone on the summit or spending a frigid night high on the route. I just had to do it.

I set a date of completion, one I had been roughly set on for a while, March 16th, 2012. Getting it done within a year of my first wall was a way for myself to see my progression or lack of. I began to plan. Studying the topo, my notes, pitch lengths, etc. I sort of shifted my attention to cardio and overall fitness rather than climbing strength but I knew it didn't matter to much. Without my head in the right place it wouldn't matter how good of shape I was in. The single most important realization I've had in the past year of climbing is if you're psyched, you're going to do it.

I was seriously scared for a good week before Zion. My mind would switch to all of the uncertainties I had about the route anytime I was able to daydream. What if I get stuck? What is weather going to be like? What does a 25 F low feel like with out a sleeping bag? What if I need to bail? Am I fit enough or will I wear out and sleep on the bivy ledge? I had planned on climbing the route without a tagline as it would just slow me down. This meant that I would have no way off the route except the top.

I got to Zion late Thursday and by Friday afternoon I had hike all my gear to the base. Only thing left to do was hike out stealthily that night to bivy at the base. I ended up sleeping outside the park because Carlos, a partner on the trip with me, wouldn't have anyway to get in without paying. We ended our afternoon with some bouldering which was a great way to get used to climbing on the grainy sandstone again.

Afternoon Shade on Moonlight Buttress

4:00 a.m. I'm wide awake the second the alarm goes off. Never before has an alpine start been easy but this was different. Silence ensued as we packed up and drove towards the park. "Today is going to hurt." I told Carlos. Nothing more was said as we drove to the parking lot. The temps were in the mid thirties as I made the approach across the Virgin River which was certainly not as warm this time of day. I blasted music to keep my mind occupied. By 6:30 I had begun climbing.

The first pitch threw a little challenge my way as there was no good anchor at the base. I ended up soloing around 30 ft. to where I could plug to cams. Pulled up my kit, clipped it to the anchor and continued up the poorly protected slab in the dark. This pitch went really well as I was a little hesitant of the insecure feel while rope soloing in shoes fit like bedroom slippers. I make quick time of the pitch and rap and clean with out a hitch. Into good anchors for the rest of the route I start to free/french free the next pitch. Coming around the roof on P2 is the aid crux of the route. This was the only piece that I gave a wholehearted bounce test to on the whole route. Yellow/Orange offset master was soo nice to have there.

By the time I get to the top of the pitch it had become light out and temps are not bad now since I've been moving for a bit. At the top of the pitch I see a giant kit of gear, a portaledge, two ropes fixed on the next pitch and three New Mexicans huddled back in an alcove. They had apparently been yelling to see if I had wanted coffee but with a mean banjo being blasted into my ears from Mumford and Sons I had no clue. I take them up on coffee since I wasn't going to have to lead the next pitch. I had no choice. It was a pin ladder with a bunch of fixed lines and draws left in place. Luckily it won't detract much since it's by far the easiest pitch of the whole route. They make me coffee and take the only pics on the route.

Sorry no camera this time. It's not so much a weight thing as it is a time issue when soloing. Bottom line: if you're not doing something you're wasting time. Down time doesn't exist when you're by yourself.

Rapping to Clean Pith 2

I ended up really enjoying that fact. It was almost easier to always be doing something. I usually psych myself out when I'm not. I kindly took them up on the coffee offer and chatted with them for probably 30-45 minutes. I tried to not give myself a time advantage since I wasn't leading pitch 3. I was afraid it was already around 9 when they told me it was only 7:40!! 2 pitches down and in only 1:10. WHOOOO! I moved up to the rocker block after coffee, had a bagel and started leading again.

About to Jug. Everything I have with me is on my back in this picture.

To the Rocker Block!

No pitch defines Moonlight like the dihedral on pitch 4. It's a 180' pitch that takes yellow master cams for days. Perfect gear the whole pitch. I back cleaned aggressively on this pitch since I only had 3 finger size cams with me. I felt totally safe as there are areas to leave other sizes as pro. I really gained a rhythm here. Place, clip, step, step, step, place clip, step, step, step... Felt good to have everything be basically thoughtless.

The climbing changes character at the rocker block. The rock gets to be a much better quality, the route steepens and the cracks become SPLITTER!!

Perfect

Pitch 5 has a really nasty flared chimney on it. Getting into the damn thing is tough and awkward. It was great the feel all the air under my feet though. Once I was that the sideways aiding tickery I had to figure out a way to how to clip the bolt. This is where my favorite trickery occurred. I didn't want to lug big bros or a heavy #6 for one 5.8 move so I went with the I'll figure it out. tried to top step in my aiders but I was still a good 8-10 inches from the bolt. I moved back down to my piece, take off the rack and camel back and clip into a piece of gear. Now working my way back up, I stand on the rack and back pack and STRRRRREEETCH to clip the bolt. Nailed it and had a little laugh at the lengths I would go to avoid a little bit of awkward chimney. The aiding continues to be a little strenuous in a corner but you end on a perfect ledge to sit and say "Thank God"

This pitch was the only one on the route I wasn't really enjoying myself. My music had died and the climbing was a big grovel. *Should have thrown a chimney climber on my rack* Ironically this is where I had a major mental block last year when cleaning. I didn't exactly enjoy the pitch but it was way smoother than last time. Felt great to jug the pitch again except this time with confidence and rhythm.

I link the head wall into 2 long pitches. I took 3 purple 0.5 C4s and #3 Metolius Master Cams. Every placement was bomber!!! I placed one after another until I realized I had back cleaned for 50 ft off the anchor. This route really is that good. Since I was linking pitches I really had to run things out. The head wall pitches are basically those size cams for the whole pitch. Last year I placed nothing but #3 Masters for the whole length of pitch 6! I had 6 pieces in this size but it was run out for linking pitches. I'd advise taking more if not very comfortable with the whole process.

As I racked up the for the final pitch I was in the dark again. I was a little nervous since this pitch wanders a bit more and has small stopper placements. The second move off the belay was a bit tricky. Sort of a blind small cam but it was plenty good. As I moved to what I thought to be the crux I was welcomed with tons of BOMBER stoppers. Felt good to finally have pro under me.

 I moved steadily towards the summit at a slower speed. I had really began to slow at this point. I was no longer high stepping and was really affected by fatigue. I had 12 hours to lead the pitch so I knew I would make it so I just focused on not blowing it this late in the game. The final pitch as per the topo really wore me down. I kept looking up knowing I was close only to pull bulge after bulge to another section of wall. All I wanted to see was the  the last section of slab. The 5.7 R slab proved to be easy, even in the dark. It's really just one move and there actually is a #1 and #2 bd to be had. Finally I plop onto the summit. I take a bit of a beak and celebrate. Finish whats in my camel back and get down to rap. I hit my one hitch on the route. My rope gets wedged into a rack when I'm 10 ft. from being completely done. Being so tired I felt a natural emotional reaction about to come out. I forced myself to look at the chains laugh and say "Could be worse" crisis avoided. A jug to the top and pull the unstuck rope up behind me.

I did it!! I didn't feel like stopping I was in such a mental flow that I felt and actually had the thought of going to tag on Touchstone. "How much longer until 24 hrs?" My phone says 10:30. 16 hrs. Temp is 31 F. I tell myself that I'll have to do a link up next time. (As I write this I realize that another seed has already been planted. Haha). Mentally I was fried from being so focused for so long. I had a thousand yard stare going as I tried to focus on simple tasks like getting some food into my system. As I eat I realize how cold it is as I start to shiver in an insulated jacket. Settling into my sleeping bag I realize I'm  exhausted.

I can't believe that a route this good exists. It's so uniform for such a long time. The position nothing short of amazing. I can't wait to go and free this thing.

Overall, soloing really is a lot of work. I moved twice as fast as the average team with 1/2 the amount of people. I figure I did at least 4 times the amount of work as last time. It really took a toll on my body. My fingers were beyond swollen and my feet the next day look like duck feet they were so big. In the end though, it doesn't matter how much torture you put yourself through it's simply incredible to have been there.

As for strategy:
Did the route in 6 pitches with a 70 linking 2/3, 6/7 and 8/9.
You can rap the whole route with a 70 M rope. **I have not done this. I have only been told. I know that you can make it from the top of the dihedral to the ground and from the summit to the bivy. I have been told that you can make it from the bivy to the base of the chimney. I believe the final rap will require to fix your rope. Either have one stashed or come back with another to retrieve your line**

My Rack:

2    #1 Metolius Master Cams
2    #2 Met. Masters
1   0.4 Black Diamond C4s
3    #3 Met. Masters
3   0.5 Black Diamond C4s
2 0.75 BD C4s
2    #1 BD C4s
2    #2 BD C4s
Offset Mast Cams 0/1 to 3/4
DMM Alloy Offsets
BD Wires 4-11
~18 Draws half trad/alpine (could have taken less)
8 or 9 lockers (could have taken less)
1 Double length (didn't use)
Gri Gri 2, Jugs, Aiders, Etc.
70 M 9.8 mm Metolius Rope

Gear:
Shell
Puffy
5 L Water
3 Cliff Bars
10 packs of homemade Energy Gel
Sendwich (Peanut Butter & Nutella Bagel)
Pair of gloves
Headlamp
iPod
Small Camelback and Bullet Pack
Metolius Big Wall Stuff Sack L (Great Rope Bag)
*Notice no chapstick... Big mistake*

Moment of Commitment

Wow. It's been a while since I written anything down here. I still have to give the whole recap on my Fall in Yosemite. I'll get around to that in the upcoming weeks. Probably going to change things up soon. The look is gettin stale.

My current sights are in soloing the classic desert line Moonlight Buttress (V 5.8 C1+) in a day. To come back and do this within one year of my first wall would be a huge progress marker for myself as MB was my fist big wall. I've planned and figured out a strategy however, the voices full of anxiety, doubt, and overall fear won't shut the hell up. It's never easy to prepare for such a big climb. Often, a summit can have a path in time leading to it that is far longer than what the non-climber realizes. This is certainly the case with Moonlight. I may not have realized it immediately, but this climb was first a thought in my head on March 18th, 2011 (the day I topped out the route the first time) and the voices have been talking non-stop ever since.

The mental dialogue is overwhelming. Every time I have climbed a wall though I have had a very distinct moment before hand when I know that I'll summit. I fall into a meditation like state of peacefulness. All the outside bullshit that strays my mind is gone. All self-talk dissipates. When it comes, I know I'm committed. I know that there is a 0% chance of a Bailure on the route. Yesterday, I had my moment. I am fully committed.

Two Weeks to Go!!

Some of you may already know but for those of you who don't I'm heading back to Yosemite this month. Ever since I've been back from the Valley my psyche has been strong. I've been training all summer to get better shape for my trip. It seems like all of the sudden I look at my calendar and realize I'll be in Yosemite in less than 2 weeks. I'm planning on being there for about a month but it really just depends on how long it takes to get my projects done.

Upcoming Walls:

Nose In A Day (VI 5.9 C2)
Half Dome In A Day (VI 5.9 C1)
Sunkist (VI 5.9 A4), Octopussy (VI 5.9 A3+) or the Shield  (VI 5.8 A3)
Leaning Tower In A Day: Solo (V 5.7 C2)
Salathe Wall (VI 5.9 C2) or Lurking Fear (VI 5.7 C2+)
S. Face of Washington Column: Solo or In-A-Day (V 5.8 C1)

Free Routes (This Trip or Near Future):

Butterballs (5.11c)
Free Blast (5.11)
E. Buttress of El Cap (5.10b)
Royal Arches (5.7 A0)
Serenity Sons (5.10d)
E. Buttress of Middle Cathedral (5.10c)
Snake Dike (5.7 R)

Touchstone Wall, Zion

I've been putting this post off for a while. I did this route with Cheyne during our trip to Zion in March:

We had just topped out on Moonlight Buttress. We ran back down to the car with the haul bag, portaledge, ropes and rack. We dumped everything on the ground, turned on the music, and had a Blue Moon that a friend gave us on the drive out. Our celebration lasted one beer as we were having to put together a rack for Touchstone (V 5.9 C2). Our plan was to start early in the morning so we wanted to have everything racked and ready to go. We finally got everything done well after dark, hopped in the car and went to head out. FUCK. The car is dead. We left the music on and the doors open for clearly too long. With it being almost 9:00 P.M. in the middle of March there was nobody in sight that could jump us. Cheyne and I sat for a tense 20 minutes before trying to start the car again. Thankfully it starts. After a filling dinner we were approached by a very interesting, very hick man from Idaho who was in the area looking for his daughter. After explaining to us how he was saved by Jesus Christ he asks for some beer and weed. We give him a beer and he heads back to his trash barrel fire that had grown to about 6 feet high at this point. We set up our beds in the Jeep and try to get some sleep after our strange encounter. We locked the doors.

Alarm goes off. We go back to bed. We wake up to overcast skies thinking it's still early (again we had another high chance of rain for the day). It's almost 9:00. Alpine start it is. We make a quick breakfast and hop in the car. FUCK. The car is dead. Cheyne heads to look for someone to give us a jump since we are already running late. After another 30 minutes of waiting the car fires up on its own. We're finally off.

We finally start to climb around 11. The days are short in March with the sun setting around 7 so we both feel some pressure to move fast. As we are on the third pitch a team is just starting up the route.

Them: "Are you fixing?"
Me: "No"
"You're going to the summit!?"
"YEAH!"
"Oh. (A bit surprised since it's past noon) Do you know if we can fix the first three pitches with 2 60 meter ropes?"
"No idea. It's our first time on the route"
"Damn, good luck!"

I'm sure they made guess of how high we would make it before we would bail soon after. We made great time though, making it to the summit in just under 7 Hours.Cheyne and I short-fixed the entire route which was really fun. Normally when climbing, a leader climbs up while clipping his rope into gear he places to protect him from falling all the way to the ground. The whole time he is leading he is being belayed by his partner. Once at the top of a pitch, he builds an anchor, pulls up the slack and belays the lower climbing who cleans the gear as he progresses. This puts both climbers and their gear at their high point. In contrast with short fixing, the leader will lead the pitch placing gear as usual, build an anchor, pull up all the slack in the rope, and then fix, or tie off, the rope to the anchor. Instead of the lower climber being belayed he ascends the rope with handled ascenders or jugs. Meanwhile, the leader can now start to make progress on the next pitch with the slack that he just pulled up. There are two options for the leader now: he can either feed the rope through a device called a Gri-Gri that will shorten the distance of a fall or he can let all the slack loop below him. The latter is called a Pakistani Death Loop (PDL). If you fall while death looping, nothing will stop you until all the slack in taken in during flight. This results in falls anywhere from 10 to usually 50 or 60 ft. but can be much much larger depending on certain factors. The PDL is a lot faster but it's only used when you're not going to fall.

I don't remember too much about the route. I know that it was really splitter the whole way. Perhaps not as much as Moonlight but still the route is sweet. Above the second pitch everything goes at 5.11-. I'm awaiting the chance to go back and free the upper pitches. The weather that day was pretty bad. Gusts of wind would knock me sideways at the belay and often the rope would be floating directly horizontal at eye level due to the wind. It was cold. Good route though, easiest big wall approach ever, and the descent isn't too bad. We chose to go down the gully. It was really easy to find all the rappels even in the dark. Most of them were short with scrambling in between. The last two raps were made from hanging belays and there was no 5th class down climbing as the super topo indicates.